How to become a model

I'm not going to beat around the bush on this one - I'll come straight to the point.

Most people who think they'd "like" to become a professional model stand no realistic chance of becoming one. Why not? I hear you ask.

There is a huge difference between "I would like to" and "I am determined to". It's a very tough, very competitive field, so unless you have a driving ambition to "make it", you'll most likely waste a few people's time, including your own, and then give up.

Whilst not every model needs to be a perfect physical specimen and breathtakingly beautiful, there are certain parameters within which you (male or female) must fit:

• You should be tall - short people don't photograph so easily.
• You should be "trim" - not necessarily stick-thin, but without any unsightly bulges.
• You should be cleanly presented, i.e. no weirdo hairstyles, tattoos, body piercings or scars.
• You should have good teeth and nails.
• Your face should be interesting in some way, with one or more outstanding features such as captivating eyes or a full, well-bowed mouth.

If you can tick all of those then let's move on.

A model is essentially a blank canvas. It's not really YOU that's being photographed, it's the makeup and the hair and the clothes and the shoes that are ON you. This requires a certain flexibility on the model's part: you must become what the art director or photographer wants, both externally and internally. In fact, modelling is pretty close to acting - you need to be able to do quiet, happy, sultry, etc on demand. If the clothes they put on you are those of an 18th Century lady at court, then you must be an 18th Century lady. If you're modelling expensive evening wear in a chic restaurant, you've got to look like you belong there!

Also in common with acting, you have to be patient and durable. You'll spend a lot of time waiting around. Shoots can vary from a few hours to all day and long into the night. Nobody's going to be impressed if you're "bored" or "tired". Some jobs will require physical strength and endurance, too: like running towards the camera - a hundred and fifty times!

The way you move is important too. Once again, it's like acting: you need to be able to stay in character whilst moving and control your movement in every tiny detail - your head, your neck, shoulders, arms, fingers, feet... everything. And you need to be able to strike a pose - in fact, a whole repertoire of poses. You may have seen this on Fashion TV or wherever: a model strikes a pose, the camera clicks, then the model moves smoothly to the next pose. The change maybe be dramatic or extremely subtle, but a good model will need little or no direction from the photographer.

To be a really good model, you should also know loads about clothes, hair, make-up, shoes and so on. If you're passionate about looking good, on or off the set, this will show through in your work and you should go far. Particularly when you are just starting out, don't assume that there's going to be dozens of people buzzing around you to do your hair, make-up and so on. Often you may need to do that yourself.

You need to be very thick-skinned too. Bursting into tears when a photographer yells at you is not good for your career! Art directors, especially, can be remarkably cruel, openly (and often viciously) criticising some aspect of your body. Be ready for it!

You can see, by now, modelling is not an easy way to earn money! Even if you've got the looks, you still need dedication, patience, endurance, flexibility, posing skills and so on... which is why modelling really is job just like any other, with a set of skills that must be learned, practised and perfected. It's so much more than being pretty.

So, assuming I still have not managed to put you off this idea, what should actually do to get started? There are two schools of thought here: assemble a portfolio and send it to agencies, or just go see the agencies straight off.

If you're the next Gisele Bündchen, then you can probably walk straight into an agency, be recognised for the goldmine that you are, and never look back. But, realistically, most aspiring models are going to need to assemble some kind of portfolio of shots before marching in to Elite Models. The purpose of the portfolio (usually called your "Book" in the industry) is to demonstrate to the agency that you photograph well, that you're versatile and that you have some experience in front of the camera. They'll be looking for range, i.e. that you don't look identical in every shot, with the same expression, same basic pose, etc. They also want to see some kind of marketable appeal, i.e. something that makes you stand out, something that makes you different from all the thousands of tall, thin, "pretty" girls and boys they've seen that week.

Still determined? Good for you!

There are two ways to build your book - pay one or more photographers to take the shots, or work with one or more photographers who are willing to do it for free. There are several reasons a photographer may be willing to do this: they may be building or expanding their own portfolio, they may be wanting to try out some new equipment or new techniques before risking it in front of a client, or they may simply be trying to curry favour with a modelling agency.

I'd advise against paying for your portfolio. It will cost a load of money and there's no guarantee that the photographer(s) will come up with the goods - many untalented photographers seem to make a living just from scamming hopeful models this way. The much smarter option is to find photographers willing to work with you on a TFP (Time For Photographs) basis. Take all the normal safety precautions: check them out, ask to see their current portfolio, ask for references from models they've worked with, etc. Expect to do your own hair, make-up, etc. - and even to bring your own outfits.

Once you've got your portfolio together, get on the next train up to the big city and go knocking on agency doors, starting at the top! Even if you get rejected by Elite Models, you'll learn a whole lot from the attempt and should be better prepared as you work your way down the list.

Good luck!

If you happen to be in the Algarve, Portugal, then maybe I can help you. Go to my business website (Jeremy Esland - Professional Photographer Algarve) for details.

P.S. One last thing - if a modelling agency ever asks you to pay for your portfolio to be made, then walk out! Immediately. No reputable agency would ever do that, so it's a 100% clear indicator that you're in the wrong place!